My Diary

Febr.4, 2006

From dark streets of Africa –1
Assalamu Aleykum, an easy solution to many problems

It’s late evening in one of the dark streets of the Egyptian city of Hurghada, a short distance from the famous tourist destination of Sharam el Shiekh, where bomb blasts took the lives of more than 90 people and injured around 200 last July. Looking around, it seems that attacks like that have not deterred tourists. The crowds are as big as in previous years, the shops are open and shopkeepers are busy competing with their rivals for custom.
"Where are you from?" This was the first question I heard -- barely, above the near constant honk of car horns.
It's the most frequently asked question on Egypt's streets, one I answered more than 100 times while walking through Hurghada's main bazaar. And I wasn't the only one being asked. Young European and Russian girls, in particular, are frequently quizzed, and any answer they give is quickly followed up with many other queries.
The small town of Hurghada, on Egypt's Red Sea coast, was established just 10 years ago, but it wasn't long before its beautiful beach and year-round warm weather began to attract Western tourists. When I visited it was February -- the middle of winter -- yet even in shorts and a very thin T-shirt I was still perspiring. The town is also a popular destination for travelers who are keen on water sports but who have to watch their budget.

The Egyptian government has done a lot to make this former desert area as attractive as other, most established, tourist spots. It's built roads, hotels and beautiful beaches, as well as shopping centers. But it's also made it harder for local people to get there.
Many Egyptians told me that locals who live outside the town need a special permit to enter Hurghada, while foreigners are free to travel wherever they like. Officially this is one of the security measures designed to safeguard tourists, a chief source of income for the Egyptian economy. But many Egyptians see it as humiliating.
Egypt is a fascinating country with warm, hospitable people. A smile is enough to make things go more smoothly and to soften reactions -- especially if you follow up with "Assalamu Aleykum," the Arabic for "Hi," which I did each step of the way.
That might not be enough to get the price down when you're shopping. But it all depends how experienced you are at bargaining. A savvy shopper can sometimes get an item for as little as half its starting price. You also need to know the value of the local currency: in mid February one dollar would buy you 5.7 Egyptian pounds.
The morning of my second day in Egypt I spent mostly looking around, riding on local transport with local people. In the afternoon I joined a group on a motor safari to the mountainous part of Hurghada, it followed later with camel riding ‘first time in my life’. This took us into the countryside, where we saw villagers living according to centuries-old traditions and customs.
Riding a bike in the windy desert didn't make for the most pleasant experience. But it was exciting to have my first ever jaunt on a safari motorbike. On the third day of my stay, our guide was planning to take us to the town of Luxor, where, according to the locals, life stopped thousands of years ago.

February 4, 2006, Hurghada, Egypt