ASHGABAT, July 25, 2007 (RFE/RL) -- The tightly controlled Central Asian republic of Turkmenistan is among the least accessible countries in the world. Authorities are stingy with visas for official visitors and tourists. Still, with perseverance or as part of official delegations, it is possible for foreigners to visit Turkmenistan. Faizullah Qardash, a correspondent with RFE/RL's Radio Free Afghanistan, was recently in Turkmenistan along with an official delegation from Kabul.

Qardash said of his first impressions in the Turkmen capital: "This country is developing very quickly. Since my last visit to Ashghabat around 10 years ago, this time I've seen an entirely different city -- its beauty and modern installations are no doubt comparable with Dubai."
Early impressions emerged shortly after Qardesh landed at Turkmenbashi International Airport, as he drove along the "Turkmenbashi" highway to the Hotel President.
Turkmenistan, home to the fourth-largest natural-gas reserves in the world, was ruled by President Saparmurat Niyazov for two decades before his death on December 21, reportedly from heart failure.
New Leadership
Niyazov -- known as "Turkmenbashi," or "father of all ethnic Turkmen" -- developed an extensive personality cult. State and public life in Turkmenistan revolved around his persona. In the immediate aftermath of his death, it was entirely unclear which direction the political system that he created would take in his absence.
Qardash says he was able to get a sense of how the succession of power in Turkmenistan is proceeding. He attended one of the few public appearances of the new president, Gurbanguly Berdymuhamadov, who came to power immediately after Niyazov's death.
Qardash says he was impressed by the speeches and stated future plans of the president.
"It's hard for new leadership to break with a former chapter of history so quickly, but the style of the new leader, his way of talking and his ambition to break [Turkmenistan's] isolation has impressed me," Qardash says. "I think reforms in education and the pension system are just the beginning of further changes."
...But Old Habits?
At the same time, nongovernmental groups continue to express concern over official practices concerning freedom of speech, press, and movement. [Editor's note: Since this report was filed, Turkmen authorities have announced an end to internal travel visa regime that has long been a fixture of life for ordinary citizens.]
In a recent statement published by the Vienna-based Turkmen Initiative, the group says that the "hope of positive development after [the] death of Niyazov so far have not been borne out, but, on the contrary, pressure on the relatives of human rights activists has intensified."
Qardash says he witnessed cases relevant to the freedom of press and expression during his short trip.
"I think that the issue of press freedom is something that remains unchanged," Qardash says, adding that he witnessed situations that could spawn doubts about the nature of the Turkmen press. "Aside from covering stories about official meetings, I also wanted to interview Turkmen officials. But, interestingly, none was prepared to say a single word -- even about nonpolitical issues.
"All attempts at informal, introductory discussions with Turkmen journalists also failed -- they said they were simply not allowed to talk with us."
Limited Movement
Qardash says he and other journalists within the visiting Afghan delegation were not allowed to leave the hotel during his entire stay.
"I don't know, maybe it was because I was part of the official delegation, but our escort did not let us to leave the hotel, even to go shopping," he says. "When I suggested going out, they said it's not allowed."
Turkmenistan's record in dealing with foreign journalists and a state-dominated press inside the country have been criticized in the international community.
Press freedom groups regularly list Turkmenistan near the bottom in global surveys on rights and related areas. Independent voices have been systematically eliminated from the public discourse, and state-run media never venture far from their political masters.
Qardash says that while he was not allowed to meet with ordinary people in Turkmenistan nor permitted to leave the hotel, he was impressed by the apparent observance of traditional dress.
"During my two-day visit, I did not see a single women wearing Western clothing, all were in their traditional Turkmen dress," he says. "I don't know if it's because of their respect for their culture or a lack of choice and communication with outsiders."
Berdymuhammedov first took the reins as an interim leader and was later elected president in an election on February 11 that Western critics regard as fundamentally undemocratic. He now appears intent on building closer ties with the Turkmenistan's immediate neighbors.
Afghan President Hamid Karzai is part of a growing list of nearby leaders who have paid official visits to Turkmenistan since Berdymuhammedov took power. Some observers argue that those visits are part of an effort to influence Turkmenistan's newly elected leadership and secure energy interests in this energy-rich country.
Published on:- Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty – Prague-Czech Republic